Nay Yong

  After a long hiatus, I find myself yet again spending quite a bit of time in Bangkok's Chinatown. This is mostly due to some photo assignments I'm working on, but I've also been making some eating trips as I now live only a couple metro stops away. As always, I've got my own repertoire of favourite stalls and dishes, but I'm also making an effort to discover some new places.

My most recent discovery is Nay Yong, a streetside curry stall on Thanon Yaowarat, Chinatown's main drag:

It's very similar to the exceedingly popular Jek Pui, located just around the corner, and likewise is associated with mild Chinese/Thai-style curries such as kaeng karii. I chose green curry served with look chin plaa kray, freshwater fish dumplings, and hearty chunks of white radish (shown at the top of this post). The curry is served over rice or khanom jeen noodles (I chose the former), and I also ordered a side of deep-fried kun chiang, a type of Chinese sausage, a traditional accompaniment to this dish. The curry is tasty but mild, and definitely benefits from the optional condiments of sliced fresh chili and a sweet soy sauce. The kun chiang here is also quite nice, and is not as waxy and bland as elsewhere.

There's another "branch" of Nay Yong virtually across the street, in the cluster of street stalls near the entrance to Talat Kao.

Nay Yong Thanon Yaowarat 7pm-late

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Nay Mong

I last blogged about this shophouse restaurant in Bangkok's Chinatown back in 2007, but after several recent meals there, feel compelled to do a re-run. Actually, despite my numerous visits, I'm somewhat ashamed to admit that I've only ever ordered one dish at Nay Mong: or lua, a crispy oyster and egg omelet (shown here). It eventually took the help of a couple newbies to get me out of my rut.

Visiting the restaurant on a recent eating tour of Chinatown, Hock's father in law, P, was clever enough to order or suan, the 'soft' version the dish (shown above). I'd had this dish elsewhere, but Nay Mong's take was simply head and shoulders above anything else. Like or lua, the dish combines just four ingredients: oysters, egg, green onions and a sticky batter (and of course, seasoning). But in this case, the ingredients are deftly fried, resulting in a light creamy texture that seems to emphasize the eggy and salty flavours of the dish; a profound contrast with the starchy, sticky, heavy pancake that one finds at most places.

I still love or lua, but there is definitely going to be some serious indecision on my next visit. And to add to this, I've also been told on good authority that Nay Mong does a very good crab fried rice.

Maybe next year.

Nay Mong 539 Thanon Phlapplaachai 02 623 1890 5-10pm

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Phat Thai Ratchawong

I blog about phat Thai on occasion, but mostly for you people. I realize it's huge abroad, particularly in the US, but to be honest, I'm not such a big fan of the stuff. Generally find it kinda stodgy and greasy, particularly when compared to a lot of Thai food out here.

But occasionally I'll meet a vendor that changes my perceptions of a dish. This was the case a while back when I went to Chinatown with my friend Be. She was born in the area and wanted to take me to some of the places where she ate when she was a kid. One of these was open-air stall serving tiny dishes of phat Thai on Thanon Ratchawong.

I had walked by this stall heaps of times previously, but had never stopped by or noticed anything in particular about it. It took Be's help and a closer look to reveal what I had been missing. To begin with, the couple, like many vendors in Bangkok's Chinatown, fry the dish over hot coals:

which provides the dish with a subtle smokey flavour. The noodles that they use are thinner than regular phat Thai noodles, and are chopped into short lengths. They've also been cooked beforehand, having been previously fried with most of requisite ingredients (sliced shallots, dried shrimp, bits of firm tofu, seasoning, egg). To order, they pull out the pre-cooked noodles and then heat them up with bean sprouts, chopped Chinese chives and additional seasoning. To go orders are served in krathong, the tiny banana leaf cups shown at the top of this post.

The couple work pretty slowly, and there are usually lots of to go orders, so this isn't exactly fast food. But if you're patient, you'll be rewarded with a phat Thai that is rich and liberally-seasoned rather than stodgy and bland (Be reckons they use duck eggs, which could contribute to this).  And despite being re-fried, the dish isn't particularly oily either. Not quite sure how they accomplish that.

Phat Tha Ratchawong Thanon Ratchawong Most nights, 7-11pm

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If you find yourself in Bangkok

and happen upon a drunk Kiwi chef grilling chicken on the side of the street, don't be alarmed; foreigners haven't started taking menial jobs, and food standards haven't yet dropped that much. Rather, Hock and I simply wanted to make frango no churrasco, Portuguese-style grilled chicken.

You see, my new place doesn't allow coal-burning stoves, so we asked the streetside Isaan restaurant downstairs if we could use their grill. They were kind enough to oblige, and the next day we brought down two small Thai free-range chickens that I had marinated overnight in my own homemade molho de piri-piri (dried phrik kariang chilies from Mae Hong Son, olive oil, garlic, vinegar, salt):

After removing the birds from the marinade, Hock spatchcocked them two different ways: one he cut down the breastbone and the other down the spine:

After a few minutes of grilling, it appeared that the latter seemed to work better, as it meant that the thicker breast meat was in the centre of the chicken, directly above the fire. Hock also pointed out that, whereas Americans and Australians happily go about spending hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars on complicated barbecue systems, this guy, like many other Thai street vendors, gets by with an enamel basin and a wire grill. This is really all one needs, since we were grilling, not smoking, and a lid isn't even necessary.

The coals were hot but not flaming, and it took a good 45 minutes to cook, all the while we drank our beers and received strange looks from passing Thais. Our kind sponsor helped us pass the time with shots of yaa dong, a bright-red, sickly-sweet Thai herbal liquor. In return, we gave him some chicken, our recipe and money for new coals.

The result was so tasty we forgot to take a pic of it.

Meanwhile, back home in Portland...

Andy "Richter" Ricker, chef/owner of Pok Pok and Ping, makes som tam on the Today show:

Visit msnbc.com for Breaking News, World News, and News about the Economy

And Nong's Khao Man Gai stall is written up in the Oregonian.

Ko Tek Chiang 3

Vegetarians, cover your eyes: this is a particularly flesh-laden post. But in its defense I'd have to say that Ko Tek Chiang 3 is one of the best uses of meat that I've encountered in a long time.

The flesh in question is in the form of toon, a Chinese-style slow braise:

It's a simple dish, consisting of cuts of pork or beef simmered until tender and served with a seasoned broth, a pinch of veggies and, if desired, rice.

We stuck with the nuea toon, beef (shown at the top of this post). The slices you see at the top of the bowl are tongue, which have their own particular meaty flavour and were virtually fall-apart tender. Below that you'll find bits of beef similar to the Vietnamese-style corned beef one finds in pho, and the Thai favourite, big strips of gelatinous tendon. The broth has a pleasant amber colour and is peppery to the point of being spicy. The dish is truly, meatily wonderful, but, in what must be the proprietor's bizarre inside joke, is served with some of the worst rice I've encountered anywhere in Thailand.

The other downside: Ko Tek Chiang 3 is located way out in Muang Thong Thani. The "3" in the name implies that there are two branches elsewhere, but they have no business card so I wasn't even able to establish an accurate address for this one. The Google Map location below, pinpointed with the consul of my iPhone, should be accurate though.

But it's worth the drive for the tongue alone.

Ko Tek Chiang 3 Bond St., Muang Thong Thani Lunch

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Phat Thai Fai Look

  The name of this stall means 'rising flame', a reference to how the phat thai here is fried a small wok, which allows the flames to char the noodles. This is a substantial difference with the vast majority of phat thai, as the dish is generally made on a wide flat surface with no flames at all.

The vendor sets up at the little alleyway of 'famous' stalls at the popular Soi 38 night market, and in addition to flames, there are a few more interesting things about how he rolls. He begins the dish by flash-frying shrimp, dried shrimp and tofu in plenty of oil over a very, very hot flame. Next, the fire is turned down and dry rice noodles are moistened with a few splashes of tinned milk and seasoned with sugar, vinegar, dried chili and fish sauce. The heat is increased again and the noodles and seasonings are mixed thoroughly (shown above). After a few seconds, chopped Chinese chives and bean sprouts are tossed in and the dish is removed. In a new wok, he then scrambles a few eggs over a very high heat and when cooked, adds these to the noodle mixture. And when serving the dish, instead of the usual sliced banana flower, he uses a few sprigs of pennywort.

Unfortunately, despite all these clever variations, the result is a pretty bog standard dish of phat thai:

Not bad, but wholly unremarkable, and most sadly, lacking the smokiness that I assume was the intent of making the dish in this manner.

Oh well.

Phat Thai Fai Look Corner Thanon Sukhumvit & Soi 38 8pm-late

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Kuan Phochana

Bangkok is a decent place to dip your toe in the ocean of regional Thai food, but as soon you attempt to go any deeper than that it's nigh impossible to find anything profoundly good (it's even getting harder to find really good Bangkok food these days, but that's a whole other blog post...).

Take khao soi, for example. If you're a regular reader of the blog you're probably already aware of my love for this northern-style curry noodle dish. I'm constantly seeking the stuff out when up north and am always on the lookout for a decent bowl here in Bangkok, but have mostly come up empty-handed. Other than the excellent khao soi at the Bangkok branch of the famous Chiang Mai institution Lam Duan, which unfortunately is located way outside of town, most khao soi in Bangkok is mediocre, or worse. And disappointingly, such was the case with today's effort, Kuan Phochana (pictured above). The broth of our khao soi kai, chicken khao soi, looked and tasted like little more than sweet-ish coconut milk combined with stale curry powder. Even the sides of pickled mustard greens and the fried chili topping were unpleasant (admittedly, the noodles were decent and authentic though). And to top it off, at 50B for a phiset or 'special' bowl, it was relatively expensive.

Luckily their nam ngiaw:

a northern-style noodle dish usually also served at the same places that serve khao soi, was decent: satisfyingly rich, meaty and fragrant.

So if you're in the neighbourhood, you could do worse than stopping by the for decent nam ngiaw, but I'd recommend saving the khao soi for your next trip up north. (And if you can't make it up north, other, slightly tastier khao soi joints in Bangkok include Khao Soi Sophaphan, Yuy Lee and Maan Mueng.)

Kuan Phochana Soi 22, Thanon Sukhumvit

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Yen Ta Fo JC

I've recently moved, and after all these years of living in Bangkok, I'm finally living in Bangkok. I'm now based steps from Thanon Silom, Bangkok's de facto financial district, basically in the centre of town. Foodwise, there's an amazing amount of cheap eats around here, strategically positioned and priced to appeal to low- and mid-level office staff. Frankly, much of it doesn't really look that interesting and is emblematic of the spicy, oily stuff that Bangkokians fancy these days. But amongst the riff raff there are a few 'famous' vendors, including a yen ta fo vendor called JC.

Despite being a street stall, and despite the fact that your order is most likely be taken by an overweight shirtless man, there's no small amount of pretension and protocol associated with eating here. Seating is strictly relegated, and the vast majority of tables are only available for groups of six. If you come with a friend you're asked to sit on the same side of one of the few tables set aside for individuals. (And don't even think about sitting where the owner sits.) Because the place is so popular and so much care is put into each bowl, you're encouraged to order multiple bowls in one go (this is called bun and stems from the Thai shortening and mispronunciation of the English word 'double'). And after all this, bowls only leisurely arrive at your your table, just as fast as the older couple can put them together.

But it's worth the wait.

The yen ta fo here is slightly sweet for my taste, but admittedly, that's exactly how this dish should be. The broth is balanced out with plenty of deep-fried crispy garlic and slightly salty tao huu yii, a tofu-based condiment that also provides the dish with it's red colour. A bowl comes with excellent-quality fish dumplings, fish cakes, shrimp balls, deep-fried tofu, par-boiled morning glory and pickled squid. And lastly, an order of sen yai here will not get you the usual wide rice noodle sheets, but rather noodles that take the form of thick, old-skool Adidas shoelace-sized strands.

Yen Ta Fo JC Sala Daeng Soi 2 6-9.20am & noon-1.30pm Tues-Fri

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Appetite

Just discovered that shooter Penny De Los Santos has started Appetite, a food-based photo blog. For those not familiar with Penny, she's a talented photojournalist who happens to do a lot of food-related work and brings those photojournalistic sensibilities into her images. It's been a while since I've come across any interesting food-related blogs, so I'm looking forward to following this one.

Naaz

  I've previously blogged about this tiny Muslim restaurant off Thanon Charoen Krung, but having recently been reminded just how good it is, not to mention the fact that it always seems to be empty, felt compelled me to do a re-run.

The dish to order here is khao mok, biryani, in particular, the goat version (pictured above). The rice here is perfectly-cooked, pleasingly oily (with ghee, I suspect) and fragrant, and studded with raisins, cashews and dried spices, while the joint of goat is fall-apart tender and sits beneath the rice in a puddle of rich curry that eventually soaks into the rice, bringing the dish together.  It's served with slices of cucumber and onion and a slice of lime and a wonderful homemade relish that's equal parts sweet and sour.

Damn, it's good.

There are a few other similar, although not quite as tasty Muslim places in the area, including Fatima, Muslim Restaurant and Home Islamic Cuisine.

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Ruam Tai

It's the story of my life. Virtually every time I make specific plans to visit a specific restaurant in Bangkok, it's closed. It's happened tens of times, and I'm surprised I haven't mentioned it here before. And yes, it happened again today when I planned to take visiting Thai food fans Nick Malgieri and David Thompson to Dao Tai, a southern Thai restaurant in Thonburi.

Suppressing the urge to throw my camera at the retractable steel wall that separated me from delicious southern Thai food, I remained calm and reminded myself that there are two seemingly identical restaurants across the street:

One of which was closed (of course), leaving us with little choice: Ruam Tai. Fortunately the bundle of sator, also known as stink beans, hanging at the display case was an encouraging sign of southern authenticity:

The selection was also encouraging, so we ordered a huge spread of dishes:

including a spicy boar stir-fry, the famous southern Thai fish kidney curry, kaeng tai plaa, a soup of fresh turmeric and chicken, a very nice yellow curry and a stir-fry of stink beans.

I particularly liked the slightly sweet soup of coconut milk, palm hearts, shrimp, the previously-mentioned stink beans and a southern Thai leaf called liang:

David liked the dish in the foreground, a mixture of cockles and bai chaphlu, wild tea or betel leaves in a mild coconut milk curry:

And I thought Nick did quite well in general, considering the famous heat of authentic southern Thai food. I thought the dishes weren't quite as refined and the flavours not as expertly balanced as those of Dao Tai, but everything was still authentic and tasty.

In the end my initial disappointment was almost entirely forgotten when we made our way into the Thai sweets shop directly next door (Phensri, 02 411 0839), where the very kind owner plied us with jasmine-scented Thai sweets, answered our ridiculous questions, and eventually took us into her kitchen where she let us see where she mixed, steamed and smoked her mor kaeng and other desserts.

Ruam Tai 375/4 Thanon Phran Nok, Thonburi 02 412 7347 7am-9pm

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Krua Apsorn

I've previously blogged about the other location of this restaurant, but the original branch, located near the National Library, is apparently the more famous of the two, and has hosted the likes of the Thai royal family and was previously named as one of the Bangkok Post's best restaurants in Bangkok a few years back. Because of these accolades, the place has a something of a reputation, and some visiting friends were keen on stopping by.

At my last visit, nobody was interested in ordering the most expensive item on the menu: crab fried in yellow chili oil (pictured above). I finally got my chance and quite enjoyed the dish, particularly its generous chunks of crab and its pleasantly oily texture.

Once again we ordered the house special dork khajorn, a type of domestic flower, flash-fried with minced pork and oyster sauce:

Hock ordered miang khanaa, expecting it to be served in the traditional manner with bai miang (sometimes known as wild tea leaf):

but as the name suggests, the dish is served here with the crispy, slightly bitter leaves of khanaa, Chinese kale.

One of the best dishes of the meal was mussels fried (or were they steamed?) with fresh herbs:

I think it was the first time either Hock or I had eaten tender, perfectly-cooked mussels in Thailand.

And finally I ordered the house green curry with freshwater fish dumplings:

The curry itself was pleasantly bland (as is the intent), but the fish balls were rubbery and flavourless.

I think we all felt it was generally a solid, satisfying meal, as is the case with of much of the Thai food in Bangkok nowadays, but nothing profoundly delicious or revelatory (which is also the case with much of the food in Bangkok).

Other reviews can be seen here and here.

Krua Apsorn Th Samsen (near corner with Soi 9) 02 668-8788, 02 241 8528 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri,10.30am-6pm Sat, closed Sun

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Khun Daeng

Khun Daeng, originally brought to my attention by diligent foodsleuth Nong A, is a tiny restaurant that serves an equally tiny repertoire of dishes. The emphasis is on kuay jap yuan, a noodle soup of partial Vietnamese origin that combines several kinds of pork including ribs, ground pork and muu yo, the smooth, peppery Vietnamese pork sausage. The nooodles used are made from rice flour and dusted with another type of flour, the latter of which provides the broth with a thick, slightly gelatinous texture. It's the kind of Vietnamese-Thai dish one finds in the towns along the Mekong River such as Mukdahan or Nong Khai. Khun Daeng also does a tasty-looking yam of muu yor.

Khun Daeng 28 Th Phra Athit 085 246 0111 11am-10pm Mon-Sat

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An Asian Sensation

Last year I collaborated with pastry master-slash-writer Nick Malgieri on a piece about street food in Bangkok for the Washington Post. This piece has finally been published: see Nick's article here and my photo gallery here (login is, I believe, required).

Khao Cooking School

Khao San Road is probably the unlikeliest place in Bangkok you'd expect to find an authentic Thai cooking school. But the people behind Khao Cooking School have heaps of experience and have put together an institution that feels both professional and homey, despite the incongrous location.

The school was founded less than a year ago by Kobkaew Najpinit (in the middle in the picture above), author of several cookbooks and a 35-year veteran of teaching Thai cooking. Her daughter Ning (on the left) speaks great English and does much of the teaching to non Thai-speaking students. A typical course at Khao spans three dishes over four hours and costs 1,500B. There are two sessions a day, each offering a different repertoire of dishes, so it's possible to study a week and not repeat a single dish. Those interested in more obscure recipes can arrange private scholarship.

Stop by and let us know how it was.

Khao Cooking School Located behind D&D Inn, Th Khao San 081 731 8001 khaocookingschool@gmail.com

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Melbourne bites

In a good way, of course.

It only took me a couple of meals and a bit of exploring to come to the conclusion that Melbourne must be one of the best food cities, well, anywhere. The diversity of cuisine alone is astounding: authentic Vietnamese, Ethiopian, Lebanese, Chinese, Greek and Italian are all easily available. The city's markets are fantastically well-stocked and vibrant. The coffee excellent. And there are meat pies. The only downside I can think of is cost, but this is largely based on my parsiminous Bangkok mindset, and reckon you're more likely to find tastier and more varied budget eats in Melbourne than say, New York City or Paris.

I was fortunate enough to eat at two of the city's upscale restaurants, Cutler & Co. and MoVida. We had a wonderful meal at the former, which had one of the most interesting dessert menus I've ever come across. Now, I'm normally not much of a sweets fan, but with creative and delicious sounding dishes as Ginger granita, coconut sorbet, fresh lychee; Toffee apple, fromage blanc, spiced short bread & cider jelly; Steamed pear & suet pudding, liquorice ice cream, confit lemon; and Chestnut ice cream, burnt butter cake, frozen chocolate crumbs & Cognac, ordering dessert was an imperative, not an option. My Chocolate ice cream sandwich, vanilla parfait & salted caramel was wonderful, but then again, I'd probably be happy with a plate of warm dirt as long as it was topped with salted caramel.

Cutler & Co. 55-57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne 03 9419 4888 www.cutlerandco.com.au

MoVida is a ridiculously popular tapas restaurant that normally requires reservations months in advance, but we were lucky enough to be able to slip in just before the place filled up on a wet and cold Sunday afternoon. L and I shared a dish of braised oxtail and ordered several great tapas including the wonderfully salty dish pictured below, "Hand filleted Cantabrian artisan anchovy on crouton with smoked tomato sorbet":

MoVida 1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne 03 9663 3038 www.movida.com.au

But perhaps the most satisfying meal of my visit was the absolute antithesis of upscale and took the form of a grubby Chinese restaurant in Footscray called 1+1 Dumpling Noodles. The restaurant, which Phil has previously written about, has a largely predictable northern Chinese menu, but with a few obscure but delicious Uighur/Western Chinese dishes thrown in. These included la mian, the famous Uighur dish of hand-pulled noodles fried with lamb, bell pepper and tomato (shown at the top of this post), spice-dusted lamb skewers, and a deliciously tart and crispy cucumber salad:

1+1 Dumpling Noodles 84 Hopkins Street, Footscray, Melbourne 03 9687 8988

Between meals it was constant stream of excellent coffee and much-missed Western baked goods. My favourite place for both was Pellegrini, an old-school 'espresso bar' that is considered by many emblematic of 1950's Melbourne. They also do a tasty apple strudel:

Pellegrini 66 Bourke Street, Melbourne 03 9662 1885

Slightly more refined pastries were available in the CBD:

and Acland Street in St. Kilda had a string of cake shops that looked impressive, but that were mostly hit and miss in terms of flavour:

I particularly enjoyed the huge variety of tasty Greek and Turkish pastries:

and of course, Aussie pies. The pie below was taken at Dinkum Pies, a rural Victoria bakery in the midst of upscale cafes on Block Place:

Dinkum Pies 29 Block Place, Melbourne 03 9654 6792

We spent a morning wandering around the halls of Victoria Market, with me drooling at the Mediterranean-style dishes I could never even dream of getting in Bangkok:

But this being Australia, we naturally settled on eating pies:

And for some reason I felt compelled to order a comically immense bratwurst:

A fittingly greedy end to what was essentially an indulgent but tasty visit.

Portland linkfest

Thanks to my boy A-Dog, who, unbeknownst to me, is apparently also "one of America’s foremost experts on Thai grilling", I was alerted that Portland, Oregon has yet again been making the media rounds. There's a lengthy and fun New York Times piece about the city, the previously referenced Food & Wine article about Andy's restaurant, Pok Pok, and a mention of the same restaurant in GQ City Guides' Portland writeup. Well done, Andy and Portland. Addendum: This Oregonian article describes Andy's new Portland restaurant, Ping.

Northern Thai in Western Melbourne

Phil said he wanted to make sai ua, the famous northern Thai sausage. I was skeptical. Phil had previously told me about Melbourne's Footscray Market and its apparently amazing selection of Asian ingredients, but could we really make anything approaching an authentic northern sausage in Australia? Using Thompson's Thai Food as a rough guide, we made a list of the ingredients we'd need and set off. Arriving at the market (pictured above), I was almost immediately converted: Footscray Market was every bit as well-stocked and hectic as any in Asia, and we had no problem finding virtually every last ingredient.

Arriving back home, and fueled by a constant stream of Little Creatures Pale Ale, we chopped the fresh herbs roughly:

and Phil fed this mixture and some pork through a meat grinder. As a test, we fried a bit of the mixture up:

and were pleased to find that it was nearly spot on. After adjusting the seasoning slightly, Phil put the ingredients through a second run, this time filling a sausage casing:

While Phil was grilling the sausage, I made two Mae Hong Son dishes: saa, a salad of pea shoots, and kaeng hang lay. I had brought with me a couple of the more obscure ingredients, but again, we were able to find everything we needed, including pork belly, at Footscray market. I marinated the meat a la Khun Yai's recipe:

and let it simmer for about four hours until it was fall-apart tender:

The weather was too cold to pretend we were in northern Thailand, but the flavours were pretty damn authentic.

Melbourne, April 2009

I recently spent three days in Melbourne, Australia shooting the photos for a magazine article about the city's alleyways, arcades and lanes (an article on the same topic, written by Phil Lees, can be seen here). It was a fun assignment, and was also my first real chance to try out my new camera, a Nikon D700, and I have to say that I'm a satisfied customer. I think I rarely shot below ISO400, sometimes even shooting at ISO6400, getting excellent results nearly all the time. I love the feel of the camera, and appreciate the gigantic viewfinder. To view a slideshow of some random images from Melbourne, click on the image above -- use keyboard arrows or hold your mouse above the images to navigate through them.