I'm currently in the process doing research for the next edition of Lonely Planet's Bangkok guide. This involves, and I'm serious here, visiting and eating at lots and lots of restaurants. It's refreshing to finally get paid for doing this, and as expected, I'm taking the job very seriously. For this morning's research I made a point of stopping by Naaz, a Muslim restaurant that, in the words of the current edition, serves "...some of the city's richest khao mok kai (chicken biryani)." Upon reading this I immediately felt provoked and defensive, as I live nearly next door to what I consider one of Bangkok's best Muslim restaurants, the self-proclaimed King of Biryani, Yusup.
Upon arriving at Naaz I diverged a bit and ordered khao mok phae, goat biryani. Even before tasting it was clear that the guide doesn't lie. The rice was absolutely perfectly cooked (overcooked rice is a common theme of lesser biryanis) and was topped with slightly sweet golden grapes, halved cashews and deep-fried crispy shallots. The fragrant yellow mound concealed a joint of goat with meat so tender it could probably be consumed by an infant. The meat was also coated in a rich curry-like sauce that had soaked into some of the rice. The dish was so perfect I didn't even use the (overly sweet) sauce provided.
Yusup, you've got competition.
Here's the interior of Naaz, as well as the diverse and interesting menu:
I had other places to visit, so I unfortunately I couldn't try anything else, but I'd certainly be curious to visit on Thursday when apparently they serve something called Karai Ghost.
Do go here.
24/9 Soi Phutta Osot (Charoen Krung Soi 43--opposite the Main Post Office)
02 234 4537