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Austin Bush

writer/photographer
  • Published Work
  • The Food of Northern Thailand
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Plaa Raa Lon/ปลาร้าหลน

April 29, 2020

Another recipe from Mae Khrua Hua Pa (แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์), said to be Thailand’s first cookbook. According to the author, Lady Plian, this recipe comes from Queen Savang Vadhana, born in Bangkok’s Grand Palace in 1862, and the great-grandmother of Thailand’s current king. The dish is a lon/หลน, a Thai dip or relish that combines coconut milk, something salty and herbs. The salty element in this version is plaa raa/ปลาร้า, unfiltered, unpasteurized, fermented fish, an ingredient one wouldn’t necessarily associate with royalty. But it actually serves as the perfect salty, funky counterpart to the rich coconut cream. This recipe includes a lot of kaffir lime – the zest, leaves and juice – giving it lots of fragrance, and honey, an ingredient one doesn’t see too often in Thai cooking. 

ปลาร้าหลน

(อย่างสมเด็จพระพันวรรษา)

เครื่องปรุง – ข่าหนัก ๑ บาท ตะไคร้หันละเอียด หนัก ๓ บาท ผิวมะกรูดหนัก ๑ เฟื้อง หอมหนัก ๗ บาท ปลาร้าพอสมควร น้ำผึ้งนิดหน่อย น้ำตาลปีบนิดหน่อย พริกชี้ฟ้า ๑๖ เม็ด น้ำมะกรูดพอสมหัวกะทิพอสมควร ผิวมะกรูดโรยหน้าหนัก ๒ ไพ

วิธีทำ – เอาหอม ข่า ตะไคร้ ผิวมะกรูดที่ชั่งไว้ ทำให้เข้ากัน จึงเอาปลาร้าต้มให้ละเอียดจนกระดูกอ่อนกรองก้างกากออกให้หมด คั้นกะทิเอาแต่ หัวตั้งไฟช้อนหัวกะทิไว้โรยหน้า จึงเอาปลาร้าที่ต้มและตะไคร้ที่ตำไว้ผสมลงในกะทิเดี๋ยวไปจนข้น จึงเอาน้ำผึ้งและน้ำตาลปีบ พริกชี้ฟ้า ผิวมะกรูด น้ำมะกรูดเทลง ชิมดูจืดเค็มตามชอบตกลงถ้วย เอาหัวกะทิที่ตักไว้หยอดลงไปและใบมะกรูดหั่นฝอยโรยหน้าปิดฝายกไปตั้งให้รับประทาน

Plaa Raa Lon [A Savory Dip with Fermented Fish]

(As made by Queen Savang Vadhana)

Ingredients: 15g galangal [peeled and sliced thinly]; 70g lemongrass [whole stalks; exterior layer peeled, pale inner part sliced thinly]; 1 teaspoon [minced] kaffir lime zest; 75g shallots [peeled and sliced thinly]; 250g unfiltered fermented fish [plaa raa; including both liquid and whole fish]; a little bit of honey [I used 2 teaspoons]; a little bit of palm sugar [I used 20g]; 60g large fresh chilies [called phrik chii faa in Thai; sliced in sections about ½ cm wide]; an appropriate amount of kaffir lime juice [I used the juice of one lime] mixed with coconut cream; kaffir lime zest for garnish [a typo, I think; this should say kaffir lime leaves, perhaps 4, sliced very thinly]

Directions: Pound shallots, galangal, lemongrass and [half of the] kaffir lime zest with a mortar and pestle. Boil the fermented fish until the bones are soft [this took about 5 minutes], strain and discard the bones. Put the coconut cream [3 cups] over a flame [and bring to a boil], removing a spoonful for the garnish. Add the boiled fermented fish [5 tablespoons] and the pounded lemongrass mixture, and simmer until reduced [I let it simmer for approximately 15 minutes, until it was reduced by about a third]. Add the honey, palm sugar, chilies, [remaining] kaffir lime zest and kaffir lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed [I let the mixture simmer another 5 minutes or so at this point – you want the final consistency to be thick enough to just barely coat a spoon or a vegetable]. Garnish with a drizzle of the reserved coconut cream and the kaffir lime leaves, serve [warm or at room temperature, not hot].

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