Every evening at about 5, a small market unfolds at Tha Chaang, the boat pier just across from Wat Phra Kaew. I happened to be in the area, and just happened to be hungry, and so began with a dish called, if I remember correctly, khanom phak kaat:
This translates as “cabbage snack”, and since this dish has no cabbage, leads me to believe I might have misunderstood the name! It’s basically fried cubes of dough (probably from rice or tapioca flour):
and is very similar, athough not as good a dish I had in Penang called char kway kak. That dish had a wonderfully smoky wok hei; this was more like well, fried bits of bland dough.
It’s not a huge market, but you’ll find all kind of prepared food such as noodles:
as well as raw ingredients, such as overpriced fruit:
Seeing all this made me hungry so I had a plate of khao khluk kapi:
This is rice that has been cooked with kapi, shrimp paste, which is then supplemented with several different toppings:
including sliced shallots, sliced green beans, shredded green mango, sliced omelet, Chinese sausage, “sweet” pork and fresh chilies. Squeeze a lime over it and you have one of Thailand’s best dishes.