A blog about food in Thailand
and elsewhere.

Sukhumvit Soi 38

Posted date:  April 27, 2006

This is a street in Bangkok that is particularly known for its street food. Every night at about 7:00 vendors push their carts out to the intersection with Sukhumvit and the hungry follow them there. The area has been well known for ages, but I get the feeling that it might be in the process of becoming a Tourist Attraction, as there were quite a few lost-looking foreigners clutching guidebooks, and the prices on some dishes were substantially higher than usual. I must admit that I’ve only recently discovered this area; I live on virtually the opposite end of Bangkok and don’t tend to eat Thai food outside of my area too often. However, I’m looking into moving–possibly to this street–and the added benefit of good street food might make it an easy decision!

Here’s a view of the street from the Thong Lor BTS station:

This guy is selling khao man kai, Hainanese chicken rice:

The guy on the right is making khaa muu, pork leg stewed in spices:

And to his left is the noodle stand I ate at. I had yen taa fo, a Chinese noodle dish. Here it is being prepared:

He’s adding phak bung, a crunchy green vegetable known in English as morning glory. The noodles were excellent–probably one of the best bowls of yen taa fo I’ve had–but at 50 baht, also one of the most expensive! However I’m always willing to pay a bit more for good food, and ahem, atmosphere (the noodles were consumed while sitting on a plastic stool on the side of the road with me virtually dripping with sweat).

Frying phat thai:

Makin juice:

This lady makes yam, Thai-style spicy/sour ‘salads’:

7 Comments for Sukhumvit Soi 38

So glad I stumbled upon your blog today. I was looking for a recipe for khao soi and yours looks authentic and delicious. Your photos are making me a bit homesick for Thailand– just returned from my second trip there and I’m missing all the great food vendors! Thanks and keep up the good work, Kate

Thanks, and keep stopping by. Honestly, right now I think I’d rather be in your place (you’re in Yosemite, right?). I’m from Oregon and the thing I miss most here is being near the forest and mountains. The jungles in SE Asia can be beautiful, but as you know they’re HOT and, well it’s just not the same as at home…

Let me know if you have any questions about khao soi.


mmm… don’t you love sitting there at 8pm at night dripping in sweat and eating hot, spicey food?

But 50 baht, thats so bad! i remember coming back down to bangkok from phetchabun and they were cahrging 40 baht just for noodles… i had a go at them for overcharging before someone told me it was most like that in the big smoke (yes.. lots of smoke!). On the flip side, the cheapest i ate was 5 baht (probably for the exact same dish!) in a far far away alley in a long forgotten village somewhere in Prae.

keep goin austin – this site is as close to thailand as you can get i reckon!

Love is not the first word that springs to mind, but it’s definately an experience!

Actually 50 isn’t so bad for a huge bowl in an air-conditioned room in a mall, but for street food? It was a rather good bowl though.

Thanks, and do keep reading!


This is amazing. My Khun Ya’s house is in that Soi. That’s where the family gathered, especially on Friday night when the adults played Badminton.

We kids were allowed to stay up as late and we wanted, and would alternate from playing games to jumping in and out of the pool. The only area we were barred from was the indoor Badminton court which was designated adult-only.

One of the rewards for staying up late on Friday night -and for not running in and dripping water all over the court- was the piping hot bowl of Jok from the shop at the front of the Soi. That Jok shop was the first food vendor on that whole Soi. Poh Kia, a Chinese sweet, and Nam-Kaeng Sai came second, and other vendors arrived later.

It’s amazing to see how big it has become, and to think that it all began from that rickety old wooden Jok shop.

The house is still there, I still go visit when I’m in Bangkok. We’ll meet for a bowl of Jok next time. 😉


It’s really a lovely street and I hope I can move there–although it looks to be somewhat outside my budget!

Although I’m sure it’s changed considerably, it seems to have progressed in a good way–there’s nothing wrong with street food, right?

I’ll look for your jok shop next time I’m around, and yes, let’s meet for a bowl next time you’re back!


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