A blog about food in Thailand
and elsewhere.


Posted date:  July 4, 2010

A bowl of bamee haeng muu daeng (egg and wheat noodles served with roasted pork) at Sawang, a noodle restaurant near Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station

Sawang is a decades-old bamee (wheat and egg noodles) joint virtually across the street from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Train Station. It’s easily located by its overabundance of florescent green lighting and the aged and rather grumpy owner who sits in a chair out front. Some aged promotional material inside desribes Sawang as “The most expensive bamee in Thailand.” Yet despite these ominous attributes, it’s now my favourite place in town to eat the dish.

Discovering Sawang — it was a tip-off from Jarrett — was well timed. Over the last few months I’ve been in something of a restaurant rut here in Bangkok. I’ve been making the effort to try places new to me, but most of those that I’ve been directed to have been mediocre, or worse. Sawang has the benefit of being both good and close to my home.

Several things about bamee stand out here. The roast pork is fatty and bacon-like and worlds away from the limp, lean, red-painted stuff you find at the vast majority of Bangkok’s bamee restaurants and stalls. The noodles are toothsome and tasty and lack the disturbing whiff of ammonia that lesser restaurants use as a leavening agent. And unlike most bamee places which tend to separate their liquids, the broth at Sawang is essentially the same water used to boil the noodles:

Par-boiling noodles at Sawang,  a noodle restaurant near Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station

thus its cloudy appearance (see pic below). It’s also worth mentioning that they’re fairly liberal with the MSG here; on my first visit a thumb-wide trail of the white crystals ran down the side of my bowl.

The kiaw (wontons) here are simply shrimp encased in a thin dough wrapper:

A bowl of kiaw kung (shrimp wontons) at Sawang, a noodle restaurant near Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station

They’re simple and tasty, but I prefer the heartier version at Mankorn Khao, in which the shrimp are surrounded by minced pork that’s been blended with an intense mixture of coriander root, garlic and white pepper. The bowl above was served with generous chunks of fresh crab claw meat, and at 100B (about US$3), is one of the more expensive around.

336/3-4Thanon Phra Ram IV
02 236 1772
5-11pm Tues-Sun

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5 Comments for Sawang

I recently looked this place up, but I couldn’t understand what the hoopla and the expense was all about. Yes, it’s quite good, but, don’t you think that the bamee moo daeng at Ekamai 19 is leaps and bounds better? Have you been to that place?

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Mrigaa, I think the fuss is about the stock at Sawang, which is much better and more concentrated than any bamee spot I’ve eaten in here. That said, I’m off to your moo daeng spot on 19. It’s close to my work — thanks for the tip.

Love the wide angle shots – gorgeous!

Looks wonderful. Great reading your post as well.Thanks.

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