The sign says raachaa khaao mok, “The king of biryani,” and that about says it all. Yusup Phochana, a Muslim restaurant located minutes from my house in northern Bangkok is probably my favourite place in town. I’ve mentioned it previously here and here, and just recently, after being shut down for a month, the restaurant moved into new digs even closer to my house. I’m happy, and thought it was high time remind people of its existence.
I ordered, as always, khaao mok plaa, fish biryani:
You’ll be hard-pressed to find another fish version of this dish in Bangkok, not to mention a khao mok this strong. Mr Yusup employs mackerel steaks that are cooked directly in the absolutely delicious rice, and topped with crispy deep-fried shallots, a couple slices of cucumber, and a sour/spicy/sweet sauce. The restaurant also does the ubiquitous chicken, and the slightly more unusual goat versions of the dish.
This was accompanied by sup haang wua, oxtail soup:
a deliciously sour/spicy/salty broth loaded with fatty oxtail and topped with deep-fried crispy shallots. The broth is so flavourful and hearty you could almost stand a spoon up in it. Those not keen on eating oxtail can go for the sup kai, chicken soup, which is very similar.
Desert took the form of rotii waan:
a paratha-like crispy pancake topped with sweetened condensed milk and sugar–a meal that would send most carbo-paranoid Americans running away screaming.
They’ve got lots of other stuff here: curry noodles, “Muslim” salad, mataba, satay, and some absolutely amazing curries, so I reckon there’s something for everybody–other than vegetarians.
Open every day, 11am-2pm
05 136 2864, 09 923 8099
Here’s the bad news: for those located in central Bangkok, getting to Yusup Phochana is going to be something of a trek. The restaurant is located in northern Bangkok along the Kaset-Navamin highway (also known as sen tat mai). If you’re coming from Mor Chit BTS/Phaholyothin, turn right at the Kaset Intersection onto the Kaset-Navamin highway. Go past the first stop light and the restaurant is on the left side just after a very large sign with the Swiss flag (as well as several Thai-language signs advertising the restaurant). If you get lost, go ahead and try one of the mobile number above, but I’m pretty sure these people don’t speak English.