A blog about food in Thailand
and elsewhere.

Nang Loeng Market

Posted date:  November 14, 2006


Nang Loeng Market is located just off of Thanon Nakhorn Sawan in Rattanakosin, old Bangkok. It first opened in 1899, and was in use until several years ago when it was destroyed by a fire. After a few years of construction, the market was recently rebuilt, and probably looks better than ever, but doesn’t really seem to have recovered. On the day I visited only about a quarter of the stalls were in use and I wouldn’t describe the atmosphere as particularly vibrant. Maybe I came on a bad day? Despite this, there’s still some interesting stuff to see (and eat), in particular the old-school snacks and treats that this market is known for.

My day began with Thai-style coffee and paa thong ko, Chinese-style doughnuts:


Like other areas in Old Bangkok, Nang Loeng is where you’ll find lots of old dudes drinking coffee and chilling:


I wandered around the market, passing by grilled sticky rice:


a lady making rice porridge:


rose apples:


a kind of freshly-steamed rice noodle called khanom paak mor:


and sugarcane:


before happening upon a small alley:


This whole alley is part of a famous noodle shop called Rung Reuang. I ordered a bowl of kiaow naam, wonton soup:


My noodles were made by a shirtless guy of Chinese origin who, according to the literature on the walls, still makes his own noodles. The kiaow were pretty good, mostly because they contained an astonishing amount of crab meat, an ingredient lesser noodle stalls skimp on.

Nang Loeng Market is particularly known for its sweets, such as these sticky rice snacks:


a bunch of khanom:


and my new favourite, khanom bueang:


While I ate my khanom beuang, I sat down to talk to the maker-man:


He told me how he is one of the few people making these snacks the old way,


employing a batter that comes from thua thong (‘golden beans’, not sure what they’re called in English) and rice, which he makes himself from scratch. The sweet ones (above) are filled with foy thong, sweetened egg yolk, and shredded coconut meat, while the savoury ones (shown in the first pic) are filled with a combination of shrimp, coconut meat, coriander roots and black pepper, all mashed up with a mortar and pestle.

This guy was born and raised in the Nang Loeng area, and told me stories about what it was like growing up there. He also told me where to find a movie theatre that was built in 1918! The theatre, called Chalerm Thani, was among Bangkok’s first, and was used up until the 1990’s, but today is used as a warehouse.

I thought this was a cool little corner of Bangkok with lots of potential. If more was done to revitalize the area, including perhaps inviting more vendors and touching up the 150 year-old row houses that surround the market, I think this could be a busy, vibrant market.

Technorati technorati tags: , , , , , ,

7 Comments for Nang Loeng Market

One of my favorite markets in BKK. You don’t say what time you went, but the place doesn’t usually get going until 10:30-11a when the government workers in the area start taking their snack breaks. We’ve been there at 830-9a and the place is quiet, and it’s dead on wknds. (Another problem I think is the traffic in the area – almost always horrendous during the wk.)

There’s been talk of refurbishing or tearing the market down for years. I would love to see the city govt put some effort into a really sensitive and respectful refurbishment – touching up the shophouses, as you say. There’s so little left of old Bangkok and this market is a treasure (more should be done to alert tourists to its existence, as well).

Robyn: Yeah, I forgot to mention that I got there too early–mostly due to the information on a Thai-language food map that suggested that most restaurants opened early. This wasn’t the case… I’m hoping to make another trip at lunchtime sometime soon. The old man I mentioned said the same thing about the traffic and lack of parking.

When are you going to post stuff from your trip to Naan? I love northern food and have had some good nosh in Naan.

great shots of the little pancakes. made me hungry just looking at them.

These photos are beautiful! Was your visit on a Monday? Most everyone seems to be wearing the yellow shirts….

shaz: They taste better than they look!

seattle tall poppy: Yep, you’re right.

Related.. Trackback…

[…]the time to read or visit the content or sites we have linked to below the[…]…

[…] on this occasion but you can read more about dishes available there on Austin Bushs posts here http://www.austinbushphotography.com/blog/nang-loeng-market.html and here http://www.austinbushphotography.com/blog/nang-loeng-market-2.html. The area is also home […]

Wanna say something?