Kuaytiaw khua kai, wide rice noodles fried with chicken and egg, is a dish found all over Bangkok’s Chinatown. I’ve had it a couple times, but have never been blown away, usually finding it often too bland or too oily. However a recent peek into a normally dark alleyway revealed the best take on the dish so far.
The dark alleyway in question, which also doubles as stall’s ‘dining room’, is Trok Issaranuphap (Charoen Krung Soi 14), the hectic market alleyway generally known as talaat mai:
The owner stations himself at the top of the alley near Th Yaowarat and painstakingly fries the dish on a small brass plate over hot coals with no more than a tablespoon. The noodles, fried with garlic-steeped oil, stick to the pan, which coupled with the coals, gives the dish a deliciously smoky flavour and an occasionally crispy texture. In addition to egg and chicken, crunchy pickled squid and chopped green onions are added, and the whole lot is served on a bed of lettuce:
With a sprinkle of salty fish sauce, a dash of chili, and accompanied by the stall’s sweet lamyai juice, kuaytiaw khua khai is one of Chinatown’s better noodle dishes.
Kuaytiaw khua kai (Google Maps link)
Trok Issaranuphap (corner Charoen Krung Soi 14 & Th Yaowarat)