Lying just steps from the famous backpacker district of Th Khao San, you’d think that there would be much in the way of authentic Thai food on Th Phra Athit. But there are actually some pretty interesting places to eat. My most recent find is a tiny streetside stall that serves only three dishes, the most famous of which is khao khluk kapi, rice cooked with shrimp paste and served with a variety of delicious toppings — a dish mentioned many times previously on these pages.
Pictured above, the dish incorporates (starting at 12 o’clock and moving clockwise) kun chiang, deep-fried Chinese sausage; deep-fried dried chilies; lime; long beans and cha om, a pungent herb; sliced fresh chilies; sliced shallots; shredded green mango; muu waan, ‘sweet pork’, pork belly that has been simmered with fish sauce and palm sugar; and in the centre, shredded omelet and dried shrimp deep-fried until crispy. There’s just about every flavour and texture you could ever want, and served with a bowl of hot broth, the dish is a tasty, healthy and balanced one-dish meal.
Another dish made here is khao phat nam phrik long ruea:
This is fried rice served with nam phrik long ruea, a pork and chili-based ‘dip’, par-boiled veggies, fresh herbs and other side dishes. The chili dip is wonderfully tart from the addition of a kind of citrus fruit, and I love the sides of salted egg (11 o’clock) and cha om,the herb mentioned above, which in this case is served in the form of a dense omelet (12 o’clock).
The third dish they were serving that day was khanom jeen saw naam, fresh rice noodles served with a coconut cream-based dressing. On previous visits I’ve also seen nam phrik kapi, a shrimp paste-based dish served much the same as the dish above.
The stall is open during lunch, dishes will set you back a whopping 30B (less than $1) and there are English-language signs, probably to facilitate the odd backpacker who dares to explore the gastronmic depths that lie beyond Khao San-style ‘pad thai’.
Khao khluk kapi Tha Phra Athit
Th Phra Athit