A blog about food in Thailand
and elsewhere.

Khao khluk kapi Tha Phra Athit

Posted date:  January 19, 2009

A dish of khao khluk kapi, rice cooked in shrimp paste with a variety of toppings,  at a street stall in Bangkok's Banglamphu district

Lying just steps from the famous backpacker district of Th Khao San, you’d think that there would be much in the way of authentic Thai food on Th Phra Athit. But there are actually some pretty interesting places to eat. My most recent find is a tiny streetside stall that serves only three dishes, the most famous of which is khao khluk kapi, rice cooked with shrimp paste and served with a variety of delicious toppings — a dish mentioned many times previously on these pages.

Pictured above, the dish incorporates (starting at 12 o’clock and moving clockwise) kun chiang, deep-fried Chinese sausage; deep-fried dried chilies; lime; long beans and cha om, a pungent herb; sliced fresh chilies; sliced shallots; shredded green mango; muu waan, ‘sweet pork’, pork belly that has been simmered with fish sauce and palm sugar; and in the centre, shredded omelet and dried shrimp deep-fried until crispy. There’s just about every flavour and texture you could ever want, and served with a bowl of hot broth, the dish is a tasty, healthy and balanced one-dish meal.

Another dish made here is khao phat nam phrik long ruea:

A dish of khao phat nam phrik long ruea, rice served with a chili-based dipping sauce and a variety of toppings, at a street stall in Bangkok's Banglamphu district

This is fried rice served with nam phrik long ruea, a pork and chili-based ‘dip’, par-boiled veggies, fresh herbs and other side dishes. The chili dip is wonderfully tart from the addition of a kind of citrus fruit, and I love the sides of salted egg (11 o’clock) and cha om,the herb mentioned above, which in this case is served in the form of a dense omelet (12 o’clock).

The third dish they were serving that day was khanom jeen saw naam, fresh rice noodles served with a coconut cream-based dressing. On previous visits I’ve also seen nam phrik kapi, a shrimp paste-based dish served much the same as the dish above.

The stall is open during lunch, dishes will set you back a whopping 30B (less than $1) and there are English-language signs, probably to facilitate the odd backpacker who dares to explore the gastronmic depths that lie beyond Khao San-style ‘pad thai’.

Khao khluk kapi Tha Phra Athit
Th Phra Athit

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8 Comments for Khao khluk kapi Tha Phra Athit

just stop it…it’s not fair…Mr. Belini’s By The River In Ayuthaya With My Husband…..I’m going to stop reading your blog once we move permanently to Australia….it’s just too hard to bear

I reckon you could probably make something very similar to this if you have at least a halfway decent Asian grocery in C-berra?

You’ll be able to see exactly what mischief we were up to in Ayuthaya in my next post…

Dear Austin,

I am an Indian food enthusiast. I am travelling to Bangkok soon, I have been there a couple of times before. I would request your guidance for the top 10 street food places in bangkok. I will really appreciate your guidance.

I endeavor to write on local exotica under Rs 100/- in india on my blog samilm.blogspot.com
look forward to your revert.

Warm regards,


I’ve been craving the khao khluk kapi from that stand on phra arthit lately– it was one of my favorite lunch options in the area. I don’t think it was that uncommon for backpackers to make it over there, though –there were usually a fair number of non-Thai diners enjoying it when I passed by. -X

Samil: I suggest you look at my Google maps link — many of the places listed there are stalls as opposed to restaurants. Particularly in Bangkok’s Chinatown, I’ve documented many street vendors.

Xander: I’ve seen few, and always get confused stares from foreigners walking by (What are you eating?), but will take your word for it! I’m sure the English-language menu cards, complete w/ photos, help a great deal — otherwise I can’t imagine most people would even know what the dish is, as it’s assembled to order.

hey there love your blog, saw this dish here and i happened to made some the other night, have a look 🙂


Good eats – I’m in Khao San Rd area every year for business – and found this stall thru your blog. Nice presentation and good food. I have discovered this guy’s place in Kanchanaburi/Nong Bua that you might want to check out on Sundays – Ban Sabai Sabai … he sets up a barbecue with deer, wild boar, chicken and mashed potatoes … it’s very well selected and prepared food.

[…] you can sit down. But after seeing this street stall on a Thai TV show and then reading about it on Austin Bush’s food blog, I went to check out Khao Kluk Kapi Niyngow […]

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