Chef Fulvio Siccardi shaving truffles at the Four Seasons Bangkok World Gourmet Festival
Chef Fulvio Siccardi was born in Turin in the Piedmont area of north-western Italy in 1969.
Since 2004 he has been owner and Chef of Ristorante Conti Roero at Monticello d’Alba, where he received his second Michelin star. His dinner for the Four Seasons Bangkok World Gourmet Festival was classically Italian, combining simple but high-quality ingredients with an emphasis on the tastes and ingredients of the country’s north.
Our starter combined peppery pastrami-like sheets of beef, crispy greens and a rich mustard sauce:
Chef Fulvio Siccardi’s Lightly smoked marinated beef tenderloin with grain mustard and chives emulsion
all of which were (generously) supplemented by truffles, shaved just before service by the chef himself (shown at the top of this post).
Our second course, which Siccardi calls alternatively Egg in jail or Vertical egg, is the his signature meal, and was quite possibly my favourite single course of the entire festival:
Chef Fulvio Siccardi’s Egg in jail
The full name of the dish is Egg with black truffle, scented Parmesan and milk sauce, and these ingredients are combined in a special kind of heat-resistant plastic bag and baked at approximately 450F for seven minutes. To eat, we untied our bags, added the crispy croutons:
Egg in jail
and using a spoon, scooped out every last bit. The eggs were rich and creamy, and had a wonderful Parmesan pungency that I can still recall clearly the next day.
This was followed by a very northern Italian gnocchi with a rich ragu:
Chef Fulvio Siccardi’s Potato gnocchi with bra sausage and veal ragu
The next course we had previously encountered at the Gala Dinner, although this version was supplemented with chanterelle mushrooms:
Chef Fulvio Siccardi’s Carmelized vinegar goose leg with Belgium endive and chanterelle mushroom
The chef explained that with this dish he’s attempted to combine all off the basic flavours: bitter from the endive, sweet and sour from the carmelized vinegar sauce and meaty and salty via the mushrooms and goose. Siccardi told us that the goose leg was cooked for several hours confit-style, but to our surprise the meat had none of the crispiness or stickiness associated with this method of cooking, and could easily have passed as sous-vide.
Dessert was three variations on yet another northern Italian dish, panna cotta:
Chef Fulvio Siccardi’s Panna cotta trilogy
the version on the left was a seriously impossibly light cream topped with a delicious salty caramel — it was probably my favourite dessert course of the entire festival — while the panna cotta in the centre was supplemented with hazelnuts in the traditional manner.
Fulvio will be hosting his final dinner at the Four Seasons Bangkok tonight, October 11. Some of the events are already sold out, so if you’re in Bangkok and interested, act fast. Call the Four Seasons at +66 (0) 2 126 8866, or email the hotel at email@example.com.