It’s my favourite kind of culinary discovery: an old-school restaurant that’s new to me.
Guided by Ideal Map’s Good Eats: Rattanakosin, a food-based map to Bangkok, I was recently pointed in the direction of Dee Mee Phochana, decades-old restaurant located in an even older neighbourhood.
Dee Mee is your classic Bangkok-style khao tom restaurant, serving a variety of prepared Thai-Chinese-style dishes. Just point at whatever looks good, and a few small plates will be brought to your table, to be accompanied by regular rice or a watery bowl of rice soup.
I went for a combo of khaa muu, braised pork leg, and tao huu phalo, tofu braised in Chinese spices, as well as a unique dish of fish served with pickled vegetables:
The phalo was a pleasant surprise, and turned out to be one of the better versions of the dish I’ve encountered in a while. Many versions of this dish can be cloyingly sweet, but the sweetness here was subtle, and was accentuated by spices such as cinnamon and clove, not more sugar. The pork leg was tender, with similar flavours, and both were accompanied by a tart, spicy, garlicky dipping sauce. The fish dish was one I hadn’t encountered previously, and combined tasty braised freshwater fish, crunchy chunks of pickled mustard green and a ‘red broth’ (nam daeng) that brought it all together.
Dee Mee Phochana
Th Ban Mor, Bangkok
02 226 4158
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