A blog about food in Thailand
and elsewhere.

The best noodles in town?

Posted date:  March 29, 2007


I’ll admit, the issue of the best noodles in town is as subjective as it gets. Despite this, it’s an issue that can result in heated debate, ill-tempered shouting and dissolved friendships. Fortunately, operating from the format of this blog, I’m able to provide some legitimacy to my vote for the Best Noodles in Town. So there. I originally came across this stall in Bangkok’s Chinatown several months ago while waiting for a train at Hua Lamphong. I tried to find it many times since then, but only succeeded recently.

The tiny stall boasts three (maybe four?) tables on an incredibly polluted, noisy and hectic stretch of Thanon Yaowarat. This is literally street food; if the vendor sticks her bum out too far what blanching bean sprouts she’s going to regret it.


The stall’s sign claims that the fishballs are all homemade, and this appears to be true. The balls are soft without being rubbery, and unlike most places, actually taste like fish–and fresh fish at that. The broth is clear but not bland, and heartily laced with cripsy deep-fried garlic, and what appears to be pickled garlic as well. I ordered kwaytiaow look chin ruam, mixed fishball noodle soup (pictured above), a dish combining four or five different kind of fish balls, a few par-boiled bean sprouts and a pinch of chopped green onion. I always order this with sen yai, the thick rice noodles, and top it off with a couple spoonfuls of the garlic/chili/vinegar sauce, and a splash of fish sauce.


The noodle stall has no name as far as I can tell and is located on Thanon Yaowarat near the corner of Thanon Plaeng Naam. Good luck.

6 Comments for The best noodles in town?

Looks delicious…I’ll keep this in mind for my next Thailand trip.

Now you have done it. OK I won’t argue with a man of your culinary experience, but I would say that if you are looking for a darn good bowl of dry-style egg noodles, and you are in the northern reaches of the city, check out Ladprao soi 123 in the mornings (not far from soi mahathai).

About 40-50 meters deep into the soi, a woman runs a stall that has the best bamii-hang I have tasted in the kingdom. Although the meat balls are pretty stock, the firm consistency in the noodles, the fried garlic, fresh sprouts, onions, and right amount of sweet and sour make it perfect for me.

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This looks like the fishball flat noodle soup in Penang. Did you try it when you were in Penang?

Will have to try and seek out fresh fish balls now, somewhere. I’m sure I would feel differently about the stuff. Wait, except I do really like curry fish balls. The curry somehow distracts the rubbery weirdness.

Is the soup stock made from fish or beef/chicken?

Looks magnificent which ever!

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