A blog about food in Thailand
and elsewhere.

Ayuthaya (again)

Posted date:  February 14, 2008


I’ve been on the road quite a bit lately, the reason for not having posted in while. However I’ve recently become the owner of an intimidatingly black MacBook, so you can expect some mobile blogging in the near future.

My first trip took me once again visit Ayuthaya. I’m always happy to go there for fresh air and the chance to explore, but the excellent Thai food has also become a good enough excuse in its own right. I’ve already mentioned it here and here, so by now you know that if you visit Ayuthaya, you must eat at Baan Wacharachai. This time I wanted to try something different, and asked the locals about the best place to eat kuaytiaw ruea, ‘boat noodles’, a dish associated with the city. I was enthusiastically pointed in the direction of an open-air restaurant across from the ruins of Wat Ratburana called Lung Lek (‘Uncle Lek’):


Lung Lek’s noodles here must be among the most intense bowls I’ve ever consumed. There were the usual condiments on the table (fish sauce, dried chilies, sugar), but none was necessary–the noodles were already thoroughly spicy, sour and sweet. The beef variety (pictured above) contained a few slices of very tender stewed beef along with lots of unidentifiable bits, and the pork combined par-boiled pork and meatballs. Both contained a handful of par-boiled phak boong (sometimes known as ‘morning glory’, a green aquatic veggie), crispy rinds and a dose of blood. After a bowl of each (they’re small and cost 15 baht) I cycled just up Thanon Chee Kun to Paa Lek (‘Aunt Lek’), another recommended noodle joint. Paa Lek’s noodles (pictured at the top of the post) were slightly more attractive, and judging by the crowd (and the wait) more popular, but I felt they lacked the intensity of the previous shop’s. Sweet was the leading flavour here, and I’m not a big fan of bean sprouts.

I’ve previously mentioned roti sai mai, candy floss wrapped up in thin pancakes. On this trip I had my sights set on another Ayuthaya sweet fav, khanom babin:


Tiny pancakes of sticky rice flour and coconut meat. When done right they’re just a tiny bit crispy on the outside, and soft and sticky on the inside. And they’re usually not too sweet either (a rare trait among Thai sweets). Khanom babin can be found in abundance at the market located directly behind Wat Phramongkhon Bophit.

9 Comments for Ayuthaya (again)

Yum, more reasons to go back.

you’re killing me. I have 10 more days until I land in Bangkok and I look at this wonderful food, oh, it’s just not fair to live so far away. Thank you. Jon

I went to a different restaurant when I was in Ayuthaya. I’m Thai, but they still treated me like a foreigner. Horrible Thai food. Too bad I don’t remember the name of the restaurant.

Btw, I enjoy the photos on your blog. Thanks for sharing.

psst, you should have gotten the Macbook Air instead, so its lighter and you can bring it everywhere to blog ;-P

Well, this is weird. Correct me if I’m wrong: You and I are both from the state of oregon. We both graduated from the University of Oregon. Now we’re both using the same computer. Really, I’m sure we’re quite different in many ways. That computer really is nice though, isn’t it?

Anyhow, great post. I don’t know if going back to Ayutthaya is on the agenda anytime soon as several times in the last six months is probably enough. Although, stranger things have happened. It is certainly one of my favorite weekend eating getaways.

I love Mac – it will make your blog even more amazing!

Thank you for giving me yet another great off the beaten path place to visit when I head to Thaiand next month! I really love the first photo of your latest post. Great color and the light is perfect.
May I ask you what lens you use when you are taking photographs of food? I would like to have a different look and experiment with the photos I use while working for a travel and culture magazine here in Seoul.

Thank you.

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kuaytiaw ruea! Oh! This is unfair. It is one of my favourite dishes. I can still remember its taste very well.

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